Ensure that you remove 2 - 3 inches of the current subgrade when completing the removal for your project (Approx. 1/4 ton of material per 20 sf). Use of a sod cutter is not mandatory, but it can significantly simplify the process. With the ability to set the desired depth, you can achieve a clean and precise cut. Before you start the removal process it is advised that you mark your irrigation to avoid any damage. We advise capping irrigation heads or cutting the irrigation line at the valve if it only waters the area you are installing.

*In order to avoid the formation of unwanted calcium deposits on your turf fibers and inhibit drying, it is recommended to avoid leaving the irrigation system in place. This can foster bacterial growth and contribute to the intensification of odors.

- Install 2 - 3" of Class II Road Base. (This is the best option for proper compaction & drainage)

- Grade base as smooth as possible. *A Concrete Placer or Push Broom is helpful.

- Water and compact base. *A Plate Compactor is the best option but a Hand Tamp will work.

- Your finished grade needs to be smooth and at least a 1/4" below any adjacent hardscape. This will allow a seamless transition from hardscape to turf.

* Use a hand tamp to compact against edges & walls

- Measure at the widest point for both length and width.

- The installation area shown is 13'x20'. The turf order would be a 15'x20' and the waste would be 2'x20'.

- Measure at the widest point for both length and width.

- The Installation area shown is 15'x20'. The turf order would be 15'x20' and you would cut off the excess turf.

- Measure the widest point for both length and width.

- Configure your pieces to lay in the same direction, preferably facing you from the area you will be looking at it most.

- In certain circumstances you will be able to use excess turf from one piece to fill in the area of the remaining area you need to cover. This will require more seams in most situations but will save on your order.

- For this layout you would order a 15'X26' then cut it into a 15'x17' & 15'x9' and seam them together.

When cutting your material for your project you need to be conscious of your seam rows. These are the rows in which the yarn is stitched through the backing. Typically, they are a 1/4" or so apart but that varies depending on the face weight of the product.

The yarn in artificial turf is directional, meaning it lays in a certain direction after its manufactured. This is important to remember when installing your turf for two reasons. When installing multiple pieces you will want to make sure that both pieces are facing the same direction. When installing a single piece, make sure to have the grain facing you in the direction you will be viewing it most. If you neglect to perform either of these actions, you may notice a visual variation in the material's hue. *Our non-directional turf eliminates color variation by maintaining a consistent color from all angles after installation and brushing. This still does not change the two rules that apply above when initially installing.

To keep your project in place and prevent any issues with stretching or displacement, it is crucial to properly secure it with nails. When nailing on a seam, be mindful not to go in deeper than two seam rows with your nail. It is important to drive the nails straight into the ground to avoid your material pulling in different directions, which can lead to gaps or overlays. Place nails every 6-8" inches and only use non-galvanized 5-6" inch nails that will rust in the ground, which will lock your turf in place. Lastly, when driving in the last inch of the nail, use another nail to gently spread the turf fibers away from the nail head and carefully tap it in to avoid creating any indentations in the base layer.